Day 3: Americans on Parade
After seeing New Delhi I didn’t really have much hope that Old Delhi would be more exciting. But the transformation, from the government created New Delhi to the people’s Old Delhi, was instantaneous. There is so much life! It was exactly what I had pictured India being before every getting off the ship. People were just everywhere. The streets were litter with some busses, many rickshaws and motorcycles, but mainly people. The conditions of all the buildings were disrepair. Trash and filth was everywhere, yet the people were happily going about there business. It felt odd to be taken pictures of people just going about their normal business, but they stared at us too, finding us as interesting as we found them. Our tour guide arranged a rickshaw (the man-powered kind) en route to Gandhi’s crematory site. So sixty-some Americans piled into two-seat rickshaws and paraded through Old Delhi. It was so fun to actually be on the same level as the locals, instead of towering above them on big charter busses. Other rickshaws, cars, bikes, motorcycles, and public busses would pull up next to us. Many people, especially the men gawked at us, which was slightly uncomfortable, yet some-what expected.
Gandhi’s burial site (I am not sure what the technical name is for where some of his ashes are kept) is a nice area surrounded by a huge park. I had to take off my shoes in order to walk up to the monument. There were many school children there on a field trip.
Next we head to this magnificent Hindu temple. We weren’t allowed to take pictures, which was a huge disappointment b/c they had gorgeous statues of different Hindu gods and goddess. Then, after that we headed to a Sikh temple. I had never heard of this religion either that blends the best of Hinduism and Islam. The Sikh people in India have been very prosperous b/c of their hard working ethics, fair treatment of women, and emphasis on education.
We headed back to the hotel for lunch, and then we had the rest of the day free. A group of people that I met on my trip and myself all went to a market. I found so much cool stuff and spent all of my money! I bought cashmere pashminas (fat scarves that are like shawls), fabric, bronze ware, wrap pants, a wrap skirt, and a hand bag. It was a very successful day of shopping!
Day 4: Pizza Hut and the Taj Mahal
At 4am I woke up and by 5am we were at the train station. We boarded a “tourist” train that is apparently much faster and nicer then the rest. We received bottles of water, a newspaper and breakfast on the train. I met some new people and talked awhile before turning my ipod on and falling asleep.
We awoke in the city of Agra which is home to the fabled Taj Mahal. We had been fore warned that this is the “dirtiest” city in India and the train station was “intense” filled with beggars, cripples, and diseased… and I would have to say that was about the most accurate description. I collected all the breakfast left-overs around me to give to beggars. Since we had been told that you could be mobbed by people (when given to beggars) I gave the food to my new friend Rex to give away. We were able to quickly disperse the food on the walk out of the train station to the bus.
Once on the bus we were informed that VIPs would be at the Taj Mahal this afternoon thus closing it to tourist. This meant that we had to rearrange our entire day, viewing it neither at dawn or dusk but smack-dab in the middle of the day. We proceeded to the Agra fort where we were supposed to be able to catch our first glimpse of the Taj. When we arrived, it was so incredibly foggy we could barely see 20 feet ahead of us! Besides that the fort was cool and amazing to think of all the might and resources that went into it.
Next we headed to the Taj. When we arrived we had to walk about half mile to the gate. The duration of this walk was filled with hawkers shoving their shit in our faces constantly. If you tried to be polite and say no thank you they took that as yes you wanted what they were selling. No joke you literally had to ignore them even when they putting stuff in your hands or pulling at you. You had to treat them like they did not exist, which for me was extremely hard (b/c I felt like I was being extremely rude). Some of my friends shouted at them “No!!” but the hawkers just didn’t seem to get it. I have never been so hassled in my life.
Once we got to the gate I could not believe the line! It was so long, but more surprisingly, it was full of Indians- not tourist. As a side note: personal space does not exist in India. Everyone one is always shoulder to shoulder and always in each other’s “personal space.” Since the line was so long (b/c they had security like at the airport) it was not moving. Our guides told us to follow this man, who in turn, led us through downtown Agra’s seedy allies to another entrance. But all the hassle was worth it… the taj is splendid! Even in my pictures it looks to perfect to be real!
The story behind the Taj: The queen of one of the great kings was pregnant with their 14th child. There were complications and on her death bed the Queen asked the King for three things. The first was to never remarry. The second was to take care of their children. And as the third and finally thing the queen asked for the King to build her something that would show the world their undying love and to always be remembered by. The king did all three things.
After the taj we drove an hour and a half to the deserted city. A great palace was built out in the middle of nowhere that apparently at first had water. But after only 14 years of use it was abandoned b/c of the lack of water. Everyone was so tired by this point in the day that the palace was not very exciting to anyone. It was grand just like every other fort/palace we had been to within the past 3 days. This one was defiantly my favorite, but it was hard to appreciate the way it should be when you’re so fatigued.
The palace built its own “lake” (which looked like a deep pool) that you looked down upon from the main level. The lake was now about 10% full of nasty green, algae infested rain water. There were a group of Indian boys playing down there, and when they spotted the tourists they would dive in. After two of them jumped in, them came out and the leader said “pay as you like.” I was so flabbergasted that these boys actually expected us to pay them for what we just witnessed! It was so funny b/c no one asked them to jump nor would anyone have cared unless we hadn’t screamed for them to stop (b/c no one knew how deep the water was). This is an example with one of my biggest problems with India. Everyone wants something for doing nothing. I understand that they have a huge labor pool (some of which is untapped) but it is almost to the point of absurdity. I used the restroom at one place where in the entrance a man stood. He didn’t say anything and I just stepped around him. The bathroom was an absolute shit hole (literally and figuratively) and when I exited, the man asked for a tip. A tip for what was my question? He did nothing but stand in my way when I entered. There had already been problems at other places where the bathroom attendants actually charged students to use the restroom, which is not allowed. These attendants are already salaried people and if they do an exceptional job and give you T.P., a towel, turn the facet on for you , or wipe down the toilet seats, then you should give a small tip. But most of the time none of these things are done.
After the abandon city we headed back to Agra and stopped at a Pizza hut for dinner. The pizza was nothing like that of the USA consisting mostly of dough, with a minimal amount of sauce, cheese or toppings. But I like carbs and had no problem eating most of it.
Then we proceeded to the train station, but we were an hour early. As we sat on the bus for a minute (trying to see if we could wait on the bus) beggars already began to line up outside of the motor coach. The tour agent for some reason wouldn’t allow us to wait on the bus so we all proceeded into the train station for the most uncomfortable hour wait known to man. The beggars, mostly children, were unrelenting. I gave a power bar to one child trying to be sneaky about it so that the others wouldn’t see and steal it from him. But what broke my heart was the callousness that not only I felt, but everyone felt. We had been hassled all day long, and by this time all anyone wanted to do was get on the train and get back to the hotel. Most students just had to turn away and not acknowledge the taps on their legs or tugs on their clothes. Others were just down right mean to them, yelling at them to go away. It was so awful, because all I wanted to do was help but their just was no way to help them all. We had been specifically told not to give to beggars, because many are being exploited by the mafias and other underground organization or their own parents. I desperately wanted to help but I didn’t want my efforts to be in vain. So I did very little, which is what I regret the most about my trip.
Day 5:
To make a long story short (and bring this to an end), once I got up, had breakfast, and checked out, we were told that our plane was delayed due to fog. Of course it would be! So 3 hours late, we finally arrived in Chennai. By this time, every other SAS trip was coming back, so we paid our bus driver, enough to put his kids through college, to speed through the streets and pass every other SAS bus so we could be the first ones off and in the "never ending" bag search line to get back on the ship. It was definately the highlight of the day, as we passed a day-trip bus, on the wrong side of the road into oncoming traffic. What can I say? We like to live dangerousely! But by the time I got back, through line and situated, there was no way I could get off again and deal with the taxis. Bummer but oh well!